Boudin. |
I was patrolling down St. Roche Avenue around lunchtime and spied a cart in the neutral ground. I felt a little gnawing in my middle and the smell from the cart tempted me to stop. I'm glad I did.
The proprietor served me a wiener that sums up New Orleans. It was over the top in it's meat-centricity and reliance on local cuisine. Allow me to paint you a picture...
Your typical American hot dog:
It didn't look anything like this.
The man handed me a half a baguette in which was sandwiched a frankfurter. He dressed it with a butter knife slathered with coarsely ground mustard. On top of that he added a generous layer of shredded roast duck. The juice out of the duck drenched the bread. "Would you like some holy trinity with that?" he asked. I assented and he dipped a spoon into a chaffing tray and ladled the sandwich with a confit of simmered bell pepper, onion and celery, better than any pickled relish.
That was one succulent dog. Price: $5.50. With a soda and small bag of chips: $6.50.
I asked why he didn't use boudin. "Boudin is too expensive. The duck drives the price up enough as it is. I use Nathan's franks and they match the duck well enough. Boudin would be too rich." Words after my own heart but I don't doubt that many of his patrons wouldn't mind biting into a rich pork and pork liver sausage for lunch.
As it was, it was a meal that stuck with me and repeated itself all day. Much better than the fare at Lucky's which I tend to toss in the trash after a few bites as money wasted.
A summary of New Orleans' hot dog market. Here's another (each sentence in this paragraph is a link)! Here's how they do it in Boston.
New Orleans is not a hot dog town. This gent's on the right track to make it one. Just add duck.
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