If you want to speak the lingo of beatniks, hipsters, hep cats, floozies, gun molls, rum runners, the sporting class, zoot suiters, dandies, rakes, and chronically underemployed poets, New Orleans is a better place than most to learn it. I spent this morning in Bywater, hipster-central. A nice, compact neighborhood that gets progressively more seedy as one progresses further from the quarter. It seems to be a safe place though I wouldn't recommend it for families with children in search of role models. Call me conservative, which I am not except when it comes to fiscal policy.
If you want to see something beautiful, look in the mirror. That's what I do. It should work for you. If you want to something beautiful outside a mirror's frame, walk about New Orleans. A wide, rambling city, every part of New Orleans shares similarities, but every block is unique in its own, eccentric way. Bywater is dense, a fabric of homes and stores and small, old factories and you never know what a building holds until you try the door.
I haven't spent too much time in Bywater beyond just passing through in my zigzagging way on an errand to nowhere. When I moved here in June I thought it might be a nice part of New Orleans to call home. A heavily tattooed, young woman in the Lower Garden District warned me away. "Stick to the Garden," she said, "The people in Bywater are weird." I don't know.
The little time I've spent nursing a coffee or beer in Bywater, I've been struck by the neighborliness of the place. People know each other. While I know my neighbors where I live, I don't bump into them regularly. Bywater seems a self-contained enclave. This is my impression.
If you want to see something else that is beautiful, there is a fence in the residential end of the French Quarter inspiring enough that it made me take a picture.
All sorts of glass flowers wired to the bars. A tree may grow in Brooklyn but the imagination flourishes in New Orleans.
And with that, I am off to other business. Have a nice weekend.
WK
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